001: Clogs brought down to planet Earth

Oh, and it's my first newsletter.

Welcome to Pema.

A play on the word pima a la pima cotton, but with a “Pe” twist in homage to my small and slow clothing brand, Pa Pe, that I started with my partner (he is Pa, I am Pe… it’s a joke). This is a newsletter centered around the art of fashion, if you couldn’t read through the contrived, double entendre of a name that I thought of literally today… Maybe it’s a stretch.

After a couple years of learning about the hyper specifics of cult fashion brands, i.e. production lines, obscure material usage, patterns, natural dyes—I’ve decided to dive into the minefield of fashion newsletters and drop the knowledge I’ve amassed about small brands that are shaking up the zeitgeist along with the pieces that I’m rocking with. If you’ve ever asked your head-ass arty friend, “why does this matter,” or “lol why is this shirt $500,” then hi, allow Pema to be your trip guide.

Each week (ish), this ‘sletter will present a brand/collection analysis along with some star pieces, which will become a sort of self-referential data system for you to get to know the story, contextual importance, and evolution of small fashion & creative businesses. A peek behind the veil, per se. From there, I’ll feature relevant news, collection drops, and the weekly need-to-know from these brands we are learning about together (*aw*) in a concise, informative format. But let’s be honest, this is self-evolving.

Lastly, I push through the resistance of self-promotion to say—if you or someone you know might enjoy the pieces I’m curating, please consider sharing. I’ll even drop a cute red button below. One more thing: if you feel inspired, please interact! Connection is a foundational pillar here, and that can only exist with your thoughts, in tandem.

Brand Analysis: Lauren Manoogian

I went back and forth about the brand that would have the honor of taking up the front and center of my very first brand analysis, but the recent purchase of my first Manoogian piece at their newly opened brick and mortar in Soho (that reminisces more of a spa than downtown retailer) solidified my zeal for the brand and left my tongue wagging over the billowing silhouettes and layered textures. The perfect entryway to a technical fabric.

Before we dive in, I understand that the lines of “small brand” are quite blurred here. Manoogian has over 100k followers on Instagram as well as countless Vogue runway features that beg the differentiation between slow and luxury fashion. But, I argue, with Lauren Manoogian, there may be both.

Manoogian’s body of work appears to be entirely made in Peru which signals to me one thing and one thing only: stellar fucking yarns. Having owned a hand-loomed Peruvian wool manta textile from my (feel free to gag here) study abroad in Peru, I get the appeal. So, if you desire to nerd out with me: Peru boasts merino and alpaca wool, fibers that are so soft it was once reserved exclusively for royalty, as well as Pima *wink wink* cotton, known as “the Cadillac of cotton” for its softness, resistance to pilling, luster (yes, it basically fucking shines), temperature regulation, durability… Do I need to say more? The essence of it all is this: Lauren Manoogian, who has an art school background in textiles and employs each of these natural yarns as the dominant, knows what she’s doing. It’s a speech in tactility, and the fabric speaks for itself.

Springtime invites us to ponder the nature of our beloved items, but Manoogian’s transparency of process is somewhat more elusive. This isn’t all bad, of course, as many artists and designer’s often keep their mills and artisans close to their chest. But that, in turn, keeps industry/labor/wage standards out of sight and out of consideration. While Manoogian speaks often to sustainability of materials and connection to artisans as core features of her brand, this isn’t fully verifiable online. Feel free to prove me wrong, though.

However, each piece does speak to a handmade process: folding, looming, weaving—certain features of high quality artisanal work. Textures so specific to the handmade quality, it could be identified more as a work of art to hang behind a shadow box. (We’ll get into it below.) Take that, with the softest materials on planet Earth, and you will get: my kinda shit.

Okay, but we’re not done quite yet; I would be remiss to not inform you that behind Lauren Manoogian is actually a creative DUO comprised of Lauren and her life partner Chris Fireoved (cute, love, inspired). Together, they take it up a notch with uncompromising, technical designs that appear to have been brought to planet earth by starseeds. Oversized silhouettes wrapped and secured—more apt for Lord of the Rings or Dune—and salt mine colors that are straight off the alpacas back. It’s a push and pull of unexpected textures, layered in ways that are so clever and ultra specific to the Lauren Manoogian universe—those who know, know.

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Sutton’s Star Pieces

Net Skirt in Bone, $590 / Double Knit Jacket in Bone, $590 (now only available in Hessian online)

Here is me, swept up in a whirlwind of creams. A sanctuary, if you will, for a beige ass bitch like myself. I took the Double Knit Jacket in Bone home with me. Made of Pima, so if you read the analysis above, you know why. My friends laughed me off the phone for adding another cardigan to my *already robust* cardigan collection, but I am telling you… she is just different. Paired with the Net Skirt in Bone, and maybe I am just juvenile, but the combo of an open stitch pattern with a thick cotton top that only barely covers my tush was a groundbreaking combo for me. I see you Lauren.

And here is me immediately getting Thai food on my new Bone Double Knit.

Capote Coat in Black Melange, $610 / Tabard in Black Melange, $295

I had a visceral reaction seeing this Black Melange fabric (A/W 23) situated amongst Manoogian’s championed cloud-colored palette. A felted alpaca and polyamide blend produces this fiber that, without a doubt, is the standout material in the store. The texture, the natural variation of color—a concoction that is impossible for the eyes to parse apart. This is the work of art type of shit that you fabric freaks are going to get. I almost tossed the Tabard in my shopping bag. And it’s June.

The Capote Coat I didn’t get to try on because, again, it’s June. But, I would be doing an injustice on the analysis of Lauren Manoogian if I did not direct your eyes to this iconic piece, pictured above on the left. Here lies, arguably, her most influential silhouette, as it is the one that jolted her to cult-fashion-brand-zeitgeist fame. Can the roots of Christian Girl Autumn be traced back to Lauren Manoogian’s Capote Coat? Research for another day.

Moto Mule in Antique Paint, $440 $220 / Rib Crop Crewneck in Chalk Melange, $370 $190

A mule? Maybe my favorite type of shoe. Hand-painted? Maybe my favorite type of handmade quality. Patina that develops uniquely with wear? Maybe my favorite type of evolution??? As I am typing this out, I’ve come to the conclusion that I need these. The slide in Antique Paint is great too…

This crewneck. Need I say more? Simple, but for all intents and purposes, perfect.

Big Net Pullover in Bone, $750 out of stock / Net Skirt in Bone, $590 / Rib Triangle Bralette in Hessian, in Bone, $210 / Handknit Bias Poncho in White, $690 / Frame Trouser in Natural, $570 / Ruche Ballet in White, $450 / Net Dress in Wood, $890 out of stock, Rib Bodysuit in Wood, $350

I think (hope) we can all agree at this point that the open stitch patterned pieces, above left and right, are sick. Layered, revealing—the people must love it because, excluding the Net Skirt, they’re out of stock.

The star in my eye, however, is the Handknit Bias Poncho, above middle, the piece that was in my mind and stayed on my mind when I sprang into the brick and mortar and discovered it was out of stock. Devastating. You know when you see something just so quintessentially you? A lesson on shape and structure, she is. But my birthday is… *checks calendar* …very soon. Someone let Pa know.

A group of looks from the Spring/Pre-Fall 24 Lookbook—unlinked because these pieces don’t appear to have presence yet—but they deserve an honorable mention. If this is indicative of coming soon, you bet your ass you’ll see me sporting this collared trench/dress apparatus later this year.

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If you read through all of this, I’m impressed. And if you aren’t afraid, let me know what you loved/hated. Talk to you soon.